Indian Migrants Live in a Fort in Pakistan!
Over 50,000 people live inside an 18th-century fort in Hyderabad, Pakistan. Many are descendants of migrants who came from India around the time of Partition and made Pakka Qila their home. What I didn't expect was for a complete stranger to walk up to me and offer to take me deep inside.Welcome to Pakka Qila, also known as Pakka Qila or "Strong Fort," in Hyderabad, Sindh, Pakistan.
Built during the rule of Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhora in the 18th century, this historic fort is unlike any fort I've visited before. Instead of being abandoned or preserved as a museum, its walls contain a dense, living neighbourhood of homes, shops, workshops, livestock, narrow lanes and thousands of people going about their daily lives.
I came here to explore the fort and see what life was really like inside.
Almost immediately, I met Ghulam Musthafa, a local man who spoke incredible English and unexpectedly became my guide.
At first, I wasn't quite sure what I'd gotten myself into. "Should I really go in here?" "Feel like I'm going to get robbed." But as we ventured deeper into Pakka Qila, my first impressions couldn't have been more wrong.
Musthafa took me through narrow residential lanes, showed me surviving sections of the old fort, introduced me to seemingly everyone we passed, and explained what life is like for the people who call this historic place home.
We see homes built right up against the old fort walls, piles of rubbish and sewage beside historic remains, goats and fat-tailed dumba sheep wandering through the neighbourhood, children returning from school, builders at work and local families producing shoes from workshops inside their homes.
More importantly, we meet the people.
Again and again, locals welcomed me as we walked through their community. Musthafa was particularly unforgettable. He gave up his time to show a complete stranger from New Zealand around his home, and when I later tried to give him money for helping me, he refused. For him, treating a guest well, or "Mehman Nawazi," was reward enough.
This is a long, raw walking tour because I wanted to show Pakka Kila as I experienced it. No polished tourist route and no carefully staged tour, just walking through the lanes with a local man I happened to meet and seeing where the day took us.
From the history of Sindh and the Partition of India to migration, hospitality, poverty, local industry and everyday life in modern Hyderabad, Pakka Qila turned out to be far more than an old fort.
And Ghulam Musthafa turned out to be far more than the stranger I was initially nervous about following.
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📍 Pakka Qila (Strong Fort), Hyderabad, Sindh, Pakistan
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